Fernand boyer



. (No Model.)

MAN

I 2 eeeeeeeeeeee 1. OYER. UFAGTURE 0P FIGURED FABRIGS.

Patented May '7, 1895.

4 F'I I3: I.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

, RBOYER. MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRIGS.

N0. 538,8 63. Patented May 7, 1895.

the stems and leaves of flowers, &c.

n'rnn rr 'FERNANI) BOYER, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 538,863, dated May '7,1895.

Application filed July 3,1894. Serial No- 516,427. (No model.) Patentedin France June 19,1894, and in England June 21,

1'0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FERNAND BOYER, a citizen of the Republic'of France,residing at Paris, France, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements inthe Manufacture of Figured Fabrics, (for which patentshave been granted in France, dated June 19, 1894, and in Great Britain,No. 12,037, dated June 21, 1894,) of which the following is aspecification. 4

This invention relates to the manufacture of figured fabrics, includingthe mode of producing the ornamentation, the fabric produced, and themechanism employed in a part of the operation.

In order that my invention may be the better understood I will explainthat by weaving, only very restricted effects in colored designs can beproduced in fabrics, and by the means at present employed for themanufacture of rich embroidered fabrics (such as those made at Lyons,France, for example) they are necessarily very costly.

According to my invention I am enabled to produce fabrics possessing therichness of embroidered fabrics and having the same variety of color, bycombining the effects produced by weaving with those produced byembroidery. p L

In carrying out my invention, I first weave on a Jacquard loom thesimpler parts of the design, such as arabseques, ornaments, vases, Thisis done in the weaving of the fabric itself, and spaces are left in thedesign for the more highly complex parts, such as flowers, for example.I then embroider the parts of the design omitted in the weaving, on anembroidery machine, such as aSwiss embroidery machine. The embroidery isworked into the fabric at thevacant spaces left in the woven design insuch a manner as to combine and unite .the two parts. In order to thuscombine the woven part of the design with the embroidered part of thedesign it is necessary to be very exact in the registry; and I employ aSwiss embroidery machine the width of which is a multiple of that of theloomthat is to say, for

furniture or upholstery fabrics for example, which are 1 m. 30 in width,I employ an embroidering machine which is 1 m. 30 x 4 5 m. 20 in width.I sew together, edge to edge, four widths of fabric from the loom sothat four similar fabrics may be embroidered at one time.

It is necessary to carefully adjust the fabric when placing it upon theembroidering machine, in order that the figures and flowers shallregister properly with the woven stems and leaves. For this purpose theembroidering machine is provided with means for stretching the fabric inthe required direction. The material is stretched to the desired extentat the proper place until the embroidering needle exactly follows thecontour of the woven design when the index of the pantograph follows thedesign of the pattern.

If there be any irregularity which necessitates stretching or bringingtogether of any two points of the fabric, I sew at the back a silkribbon between the points to be brought together. This ribbon willitself be covered by the embroidery threads and will be almost invisibleas it will be afterward cut off between the flowers.

In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated my invention.

Figure 1 is a View showing the fabric as it comes from the loom, andFig. 2 is a view of the same fabric after it has been completed byapplying the embroidery.

a is the ground, b the branches and leaves produced in the weaving, andc the flowers, 850., produced on the Swiss embroidering machine.

In order that the operation may be performed under the best conditionsit is necessary to embroider the fabric almost immediately after itcomes from the loom. Under these conditions it is not necessary to dressor finish it, but recourse may be had to this means to avoid anystretching or shrinking of the fabric under the influence of thevariations of temperature or of the atmosphere.

It will be understood that I do not claim' broadly embroidering fabricswhich have figures woven in them. My invention is limited to firstproducing in the fabric a part of a fig ure or pattern on the loom andin the process of weaving the fabric, and then producing the remaider ofthe figure or pattern by embroidery in an embroidering machine; the lastportion of the pattern or figure being made to register accurately withthe first part in such a manner as to produce the effect of a completefigure produced by an embroidering machine.

I am aware that it is not new to print fig" ures on a portion of thesurface of a woven fabric which has had stripes produced in it byweaving; and I am alsoaware that it is not new to weave a figured terryfabric and then color parts of the figures. These I do not claim as theydo not come within the scope of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, I claim 1. The herein describedmethod of producing figured fabrics which consists in first FERNAND BOYER.

Witnesses:

EDWARD P. MACLEAN, ALEXANDER MATHIEU.

